Introduction
We had originally planned to hike the full Laguna de los Tres Trail, but had to cut it short after rearranging our itinerary to include the Mini Trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier. Both Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Capri hikes follow the Senda al Fitz Roy Trail, with Laguna Capri actually serving as one of the free campgrounds along the way.
Located near the beginning of the trail, Laguna Capri still offers stunning views of Mount Fitz Roy, but it’s quite a distance from the base. While the views were still epic, I would have loved to complete the full trail and camp at Poincenot — one of the popular backcountry sites closer to Fitz Roy. Unfortunately, time just wasn’t on our side.
An important note to make is to check on permit requirements before you embarque. Shortly before we left for our trip to Los Glaciers National Park they had started implementing a permit process. It wasn’t hard to get ours outside of paying for the fee and adding our reservation online. There were rangers who checked when we got close to the trail head. Definitely check in advance because things are always changing, and once you are out there service can be spotty.
How To Get There
When we landed at the airport in El Calafate, we took a taxi directly to El Chaltén — about a 2-hour drive through stunning Patagonian landscapes. We arranged a round-trip transfer with our driver, giving him the return date and time after he dropped us off in El Chaltén. He even made a few scenic stops along the way so we could take photos of the mountains and lakes. On our return trip, he picked us up right on schedule and dropped us off at our hotel back in El Calafate.
Storing Luggage
Since we arrived in El Chaltén directly from the airport, we didn’t want to book a hotel just to store our luggage while we camped. Instead, we looked for alternative storage options and found a great solution at BajoZero, a local camp store in town. They have lockers big enough to fit large checked suitcases, which was perfect for us. It was a tight fit though, so just be weary.
BajoZero also has a patio area in the back where we were able to repack our backpacks before beginning our hike. It was especially helpful since most of our camping gear was in our checked luggage from the flight, and inside the store and by the locker area is a tight fit. They also sell jet fuel for pocket stoves, which we couldn’t bring on the plane. It was a little windy, so you have to be careful when unpacking out there to make sure your stuff doesn’t blow away. Once we were packed and ready, it was a simple walk up the street toward the Senda al Fitz Roy trailhead. We had asked our driver to drop us in front of the Bajo Zero camping store for us to drop our stuff off and continue on the ascent. This is also where he agreed to pick us up.
View Points
On the way up to Laguna Capri, you will pass by the Mirador Río de las Vueltas View Point, which was beyond stunning. It offers panoramic views of the winding river cutting through the valley with dramatic mountain backdrops. It’s one of those spots that truly captures the scale and beauty of Patagonia.
Campgrounds
There are three main campgrounds along the Laguna de los Tres Trail:
- Laguna Capri – A beautiful spot early in the trail with great views of Fitz Roy
- Poincenot – The closest campground to the final ascent to Fitz Roy’s base
- De Agostini – Located near Cerro Torre, along a separate trail loop
Due to our tight schedule, we only had time to hike to Laguna Capri and back. While it’s definitely possible to reach Poincenot and camp there in a single day, we had just come off of four hours of sleep across a three nights travel through airports in Brazil and were also gearing up for the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier the following day after our hike back. The full trail is more demanding, and it just felt like too much given how exhausted we were.
If we had more time to spend in the area, I would have loved to do the full trek to the base of Fitz Roy and even tackle the Laguna Torre loop as well.
Laguna Capri was a surprisingly peaceful campground. The sites are fairly spread out, and at least when we were there, it wasn’t too crowded, which made for a really quiet and relaxing experience. We were able to set up our tent right by the water, with a small trail leading straight down to the lake. It made it super convenient for refilling water packs and cooking dinner with a view.
Even though it’s not at the base of Fitz Roy, the views from Laguna Capri are still absolutely stunning especially at sunrise and sunset when the light hits the peaks. It might not have been Poincenot, but it was still by far one of my favorite campsites I’ve stayed at.
That said, it was very windy throughout the night, and quite chilly in the early morning as we waited for the sun to rise above the mountains. If you’re camping here, make sure your tent is securely staked down, and bring a warm sleeping bag and jacket, even in the summer. We went during the warmer months and still found it cold, so I can only imagine how brisk it gets in winter.
Mirador Del Fitz Roy View From Laguna Capri
Even with limited time, camping at Laguna Capri was absolutely worth it. We opted for a shorter hike along the Fitz Roy Trail instead of completing the full Laguna de los Tres route, but still got to enjoy incredible views of Mount Fitz Roy. Our plans shifted last minute to fit in the Perito Moreno Glacier trek, but I’m so glad we still made time to hike in El Chaltén. Waking up surrounded by trees, sipping coffee by the lake, and looking out at one of the most beautiful viewpoints I’ve ever camped at. Doing this hike was one of the most peaceful and rewarding parts of the trip.